In love with Rajasthan
Experience the colour, tradition, luxury and regal allure of India's most colourful and flamboyant region.
Majestic Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur stands as testimony to one of the fiercest and formidable kingdoms of the Rajput states.
Photo: © Natalie Bannister
Royal Jaipur
The gateway to India’s desert state, Rajasthan, Jaipur may be bustling and bursting at the seams, but the Pink City (as it’s known thanks to its profusion of salmon-hued façades) remains a treasure trove of old India.
Jaipur is a riot of colour and character — a feast for the senses, there is so much beauty hidden amongst the chaos. The blush tones of the Old City walls and intricately-painted murals of palace doors hint of tales to tell from the days of Maharajas and Maharanis, peacocks still roam the gardens of grand old palaces, monkeys scamper across rooftops, and brightly-painted elephants lumber down the streets on the outskirts of the city centre, absorbing the new while embracing the old.
Check in to any one of Jaipur’s most splendid hotels, many of which are centuries-old palaces and Havelis (traditional-style mansions) that have been converted into plush boutique retreats to spend a few days feeling like a royal, but venture beyond to experience the true heart of this ancient city and you’ll discover so many treasures.
Above: Jaipur’s golden-hued Amer Fort. All photos © Natalie Bannister
Jaipur is a fortress city, with three forts that once formed a vital defence ring. The 16th-century Amer Fort (also called Amber Fort) is the largest of the three, with a commanding position high on a hill overlooking the city. It’s the best place to start your adventure, as it offers a wealth of history and the remains of Jaipur’s regal grandeur — this sprawling palace complex is a perfect example of Mughal architecture (the mirrored Sheesh Mahal, in particular, is stunning!).
There is such a thing as ‘fort fatigue’ here in Jaipur, but don't be tempted to skip the nearby Nahargarh Fort, which was once the hunting residence of the Maharajas of Jaipur (the name translates to Tiger Fort). With fewer crowds than Amer, you can wander peacefully through the empty halls, hidden passageways and ornately-painted royal chambers, and take in the splendid views over the Pink City. The walls of the fort extend over the hills to the sprawling red-sandstone fort of Jaigarh, built in 1726 to protect the Amer Fort and its palace complex, completing this city's impressive fortifications.
Above: Wander the grand empty chambers of the Maharaja of Jaipur’s former hunting lodge at Nahargarh Fort.
All photos © Natalie Bannister
“There is such a thing as ‘fort fatigue’ here in Jaipur”
Make sure you also head to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed temple to the stars, Jantar Mantar, a truly remarkable series of architectural monuments and structures, designed for observing and measuring the distances and positions of celestial objects, that were built in the early 18th-century under the orders of Prince Jai Singh II, a passionate observer of the cosmos.
Jantar Mantar can be combined with a tour of the City Palace, finishing with a glimpse of the extraordinary Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds. This exquisite hive of latticed windows, carved out of pink sandstone, is undeniably the city's most distinctive landmark. It was built in 1799 to enable the ladies of the royal household to be able to watch the processions and life of the streets below without being seen by the public. Now, you can take in the superb views and the chaos of busy, bustling Sireh Deori Bazaar from the screened niches.
Don’t leave the City Palace confines without a stop at Baradari, the beautifully renovated contemporary restaurant within Jaipur’s City Palace, for al fresco dining in a courtyard that’s several centuries old. It’s my favourite place to come for peaceful respite, with a gorgeous central courtyard for outdoor dining, tasty modern Indian dishes on the menu, and a superb cocktail list to wash your day of sightseeing down in style.
A symbol of the regal and royal days of Jaipur, City Palace is an icon of grandeur, with its beautiful mélange of Rajput, European and Mughal style architecture. All photos © Natalie Bannister
Jaipur is a major centre for textiles, gems and block printing, and you’ll find plenty of reasons to shop up a storm in the city's markets and boutiques. Treasure hunters can explore tiny workshops and emporiums plying the trade of semi-precious stones and silver jewellery in Johari Bazaar. Or, visit The Gem Palace where, even if you can’t afford to buy anything (few could!), you'll see some of the most exquisite jewels in all of India.
Dining in Jaipur can be a sophisticated affair, thanks to a burgeoning social scene and a plethora of fine dining restaurants. The most popular and undeniably one of the most beautiful spaces for wining and dining in all of Rajasthan is Bar Palladio, set in the entry grounds of Narain Niwas Palace Hotel. Owned by Italian expat Barbara Miolini, and designed by Dutch designer Marie-Anne Oudejans, Bar Palladio offers an Italian menu that is as delicious as the restaurant's exotic murals, peacock-blue and white palette, tented canopies and garden pavilions.
“The most popular and undeniably one of the most beautiful spaces for wining and dining in all of Rajasthan is Bar Palladio, set in the entry grounds of Narain Niwas Palace Hotel.”
Above: All images courtesy Bar Palladio, Jaipur
Lakeside splendour in Udaipur
A shimmering jewel in the desert state, Udaipur has an ambiance that enchants me time and time again with its regal romance and intoxicating beauty, its stunning marble palaces, mighty mansions, rooftop restaurants, and a unique and very special charm that is unlike any other place in India.
Known as the ‘Venice of the East,’ Udaipur boasts three lakes and one of the most magical sunsets in Rajasthan. Needless to say, the peace is palpable.
Lake Pichola is the biggest of Udaipur’s lakes and is at the heart of the city’s allure. It also provides Udaipur’s most iconic scenes, the magnificent and world-renowned Taj Lake Palace Hotel which takes center stage floating on its own private island in the middle of the lake, the epitome of luxury and true decadence (fun fact: the hotel was famously the setting for the 1983 James Bond movie, Octopussy).
The city makes for a remarkably peaceful escape, in stark contrast to the frenetic pace of other Rajasthan cities, and thanks to its easy access from road or air, an ideal few days can easily be slotted in here on any itinerary. Udaipur also offers some incredible accommodation options, from the uber-luxe to the more affordable (however, still undeniably enchanting) hotels and traditional Havelis, many set right on the lake’s shore, and all fit for a Maharani or Maharaja.
Above: The breathtaking beauty of Lake Pichola, Udaipu (with the Taj Lake Palace Hotel) captured at the golden hour of sunset.
Photo: © Natalie Bannister
“A shimmering jewel in the desert state, Udaipur has an ambiance that enchants me time and time again”
It’s easy to explore the old city of Udaipur on foot, and don’t be afraid to get a little lost amongst the serpentine alleyways teeming with shops and stalls selling trinkets, spices, leather, clothing, miniature paintings and traditional crafts.
Spend a few hours wandering through the private chambers, courtyards, and mahals of the sprawling City Palace, one of India’s few ‘living palaces,’ as the Maharaja and his family still reside in part here, and if you’re still exploring the precinct in the afternoon, end your visit with a sunset drink on the terrace at the adjoining Shiv Niwas Palace, a grand heritage palace hotel, and watch as the sun sinks over the Aravalli hills.
A sunset cruise around Lake Pichola is not to be missed, and you can purchase tickets from the City Palace ticket counter. But for something more intimate and private, you’re best to avoid the tourist masses and charter a private boat (some hotels offer their own) – you'll be rewarded with the best scenic view of the lake and the surrounding mountains, and the freedom to putt around at your leisure. I have magical memories of our afternoon cruise, when we boarded our own private boat right from the steps of our accommodation, the beautiful Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel, a 17th-century haveli turned boutique hotel set on the eastern banks of the lake’s shore (my favourite place to stay in Udaipur).
The peace is palpable on the lake at this time of day, watching the sun melt into the waters of Lake Pichola, with the palaces, hotels and islands bathed in a golden glow. End the trip with a slow cruise along the edges of the Old City ghats (steps that lead down to the water), the most famous of which is Gangaur Ghat where the beautiful old noble Bagore Ki Haveli resides (it's now a museum, and well worth a visit).
Above: A view of the City Palace from the rooftop of Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel. Photo © Natalie Bannister
Above: India’s fabled “City of Romance” certainly can capture the heart. Udaipur in all its beauty and majesty. All photos © Natalie Bannister
If you are staying in the Old City area of Udaipur, there is certainly no shortage of rooftop restaurants where you can reserve a table and settle in for a romantic feast of Rajasthani delights, with the lights of the Taj Lake Palace twinkling on the waters of Lake Pichola right in front of you as you dine. You can’t beat the rooftop restaurant at Udai Kothi – it's the perfect spot for a romantic candlelit dinner, complete with unparalleled views over the Old City. Or relish in the romance of dining at some of the city’s best lakeside restaurants, like Ambrai at Amet Haveli which is as close to the water’s edge as you can get, set on the banks of Lake Pichola with glorious views of Gangaur Ghat, City Palace, Lake Palace, Jagmandir and Sajjangarh Fort.
Above: The imposing Mehrangarh Fort stands sentinel over Rajasthan’s Blue City, Jodhpur. Photo: © Natalie Bannister
Mighty Jodhpur
A busy, bustling city with attractions that are unique to this area in Rajasthan, Jodhpur is definitely worthy of a visit en route to the Thar Desert beyond. With its famed indigo-painted houses that give it the name the Blue City, and one of India's most spectacular forts, Jodhpur has an air of regality about it – it's a princely state, with an impressive tale to tell.
Established in the 15th-century by Rao Jodha, the fortress city’s 10-kilometre rampart wall still stands as testimony to one of the fiercest and formidable kingdoms of the Rajput states. Exquisite palaces, temples and Havelis are dominated by the gargantuan Mehrangarh Fort (one of India's largest) to the west and the majestic sandstone and marble palace of Umaid Bhawan to the east (now a grand palace hotel and still home to Jodhpur’s royal family).
It's a desert city that is rich in culture and tradition, a strong culture of music and folk dance, and a people that are known as some of the most hospitable in all of Rajasthan, all lend a unique aura and character to Jodhpur.
There’s a bunch of great bazaars to explore, and it's always interesting to walk through the laneways and back streets, too. Go on the hunt for exquisite textiles, antique furniture, traditional handmade and embroidered leather shoes (juttis), lacquerware, antiques, carpets, puppets, colourful bangles and the silver jewellery of the nomadic Banjara tribe. You'll tackle a riotous show of classic India – a cacophony of sounds, smells and chaos, with vegetable carts, incense smoke, pungent spices, Indian sweets, Chai wallahs and holy cows all jostling for some space and attention.
The incredible beauty of Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur. All photos © Natalie Bannister
““The work of angels, fairies, and giants… built by Titans and coloured by the morning sun… he who walks through it loses sense of being among buildings. It is as though he walked through mountain gorges…””
You cannot escape the view of the impregnable Mehrangarh Fort from anywhere you stand in Jodhpur. Chiselled out of the perpendicular cliff on which it stands, 400 feet above the city, the fort is colossal in both size and legend. Rudyard Kipling wrote of Mehrangarh when he visited Jodhpur in 1899, that it was, “The work of angels, fairies, and giants… built by Titans and coloured by the morning sun… he who walks through it loses sense of being among buildings. It is as though he walked through mountain gorges…”
Negotiate a ride from a local tuk-tuk driver and head up the hill to explore the fort's fascinating museum (mehrangarh.org). The view out over the Blue City from the fort is simply outstanding – first thing in the morning and late afternoon are the ideal times to visit, offering the best light and space to really explore without all the crowds. And be sure to hire the audio guide, as the experience just wouldn’t be the same without hearing the tales of war, love, royal life and history as you explore.
Take in the romance of an evening at RAAS, an 18th-century haveli that is now a beautifully restored boutique hotel in the north-eastern quarter of the city. Even if you’re not a guest of the hotel, you can still reserve a spot at any of their dining options – our pick is the open-air rooftop bar, which has one of the finest views of Mehrangarh Fort lit-up at night. It's absolutely spectacular! The hotel is right next to the incredible Toorji Ka Jhalra, an 18th-century stepwell, where you'll often see the local kids enjoying their favourite swim hole. Right next to and overlooking the magnificent stepwell is one of our favourite places to relax and unwind after the long days of work, the Stepwell Cafe. There are multiple levels to pull up a seat and dine but I usually just head straight up to the rooftop to sink into the floor cushions of the little open-air lounge, order a cool drink and some Sev Puri (a popular Indian snack originating from Mumbai – morsels of deliciousness!), and take it all in. You can easily lose hours here watching the many kids who come to enjoy their local swim hole, diving into the stepwell below when the rains have come and the water level is up.
The fabled Blue City is Jodhpur’s most iconic of scenes – twisting lanes of indigo homes that stretch along the walls of the historic walled Old City, where the roads are so narrow they cannot be accessed by large vehicle. It’s a walking-only affair here, which suits us just fine, as it offers the chance to slow down and take it all in. The blue pigment on these houses used to indicate that Brahmin (the priests of the Indian caste system) dwelled there. These days, locals tell us, the blue has been adopted by non-Brahmin families too, as the colour is a natural mosquito repellant, and cooling in the scorching heat of summer.
“It’s a walking-only affair here, which suits us just fine, as it offers the chance to slow down and take it all in.”
Above: Walk the fabled Blue City is Jodhpur’s most iconic of scenes, ending at the incredible Toorji Ka Jhalra, an 18th-century stepwell.
All photos © Natalie Bannister
In love with Rajasthan — Jodhpur street scenes. Photo © Natalie Bannister
This is an excerpt of a story featured in the 2018 annual edition of Holidays for Couples magazine.
You can view the full article in our portfolio of published works.