A guide to the best of Bali — Part 1: Seminyak & Canggu
From the hedonistic to the heavenly, Bali offers the perfect blend of indulgence, adventure and relaxation – an island escape beckoning you to check-in and chill out.
All images © Natalie Bannister
The tantalising mix of sun-drenched beaches, eco escapes, blazing sunsets, barefoot luxury, sophisticated fashion, world-class dining, and one of the most beautiful cultures in the world lures me back to Bali at least a few times each year – and with each return, I swear, this island just keeps on getting better. Whether it’s the restaurants, the resorts or the escapism you’re after, no matter your style, budget or lifestyle, Bali has a ‘choose your own adventure’ exotic charm. Every region of this tiny but mighty island offers a melting pot of experiences that are ever-changing, and always impressive.
We’ve put together a four-part ‘Best of’ guide to Bali covering all of our favourite places to eat, stay, shop and play, beginning where all good luxury holidays should start, in the oh-so-chic haven of Seminyak.
Woo Bar at W Bali. Image: © Natalie Bannister
Seminyak — A Cosmopolitan Playground
Known as Bali’s centre of luxury and indulgence, Seminyak offers an enticing mix of hip hangouts, chic boutiques, cool bars, beach clubs, swanky accommodation options, and some of the island’s best restaurants. Yes, it’s often bustling with pedestrians and bumper-to-bumper traffic, but the area still manages to retain an alluring charm, with one of the loveliest stretches of beaches and that famous Seminyak sunset the perfect medium to the more frenetic pace of the streets. It hasn’t lost its allure as one of Bali’s best places to stay and play – for at least a few days of shopping, sipping and savouring.
Even if you’re not staying in Seminyak, chances are you’ll be heading there to eat — this area is Bali’s fine-dining hub, with world-class restaurants headed up by Michelin-quality chefs and savvy restauranteurs. There are plenty of modern cafes, bistros and restaurants to attract gourmands, but my all-time favourite place to dine is also one of the island’s original dining establishments, La Lucciola, which beckons us back time and time again with its enchanting setting and modern Mediterranean-style fare. Some of my most memorable meals have been had right here, at a table under the open-air, soaring thatched-roof pavilion, enjoying delectable dishes served with the cooling breeze from the ocean beyond. La Looch – as it’s affectionately known among longtime Bali lovers – is classic, unadulterated Bali at its best.
That said, there are so many other ways to combine your feasting with fun — and Seminyak does the mix so well!
Image courtesy Motel Mexicola
For some foodie style with some playtime, just head to the hip Australian-led hangout Motel Mexicola, where a 1960s Acapulco mood meets eclectic cool, with a scene of neon lights, crucifixes, cacti, lurid Cantina style lounges, and the best darn margaritas this side of Mexico! Mexicola sets the scene for a modern take on Mexican street food, and the vibe is always on point — relaxed and festive by day when you’ll often be serenaded by roaming singers with acoustic guitars, and electrifying late in the night when the endless rounds of cocktails kick in and the music starts pumping.
Sunset over Seminyak beach. Image: © Natalie Bannister
Or, for a sunset washed down with beats and bliss, head to the so-cool-it-hurts W Bali, one of Seminyak’s premier resorts, which also boasts one of the island’s best – and most contemporary – beachside bar scenes at Woobar. Enjoy a sundowner with Balearic beats, then shimmy over to the resort’s stellar restaurants, Fire or Starfish Bloo, for a meal to remember.
The Seminyak sunset is iconic with Bali lovers, and there’s really no better place to lounge than beachside as the sky turns golden and the day simmers down. Little wonder that Seminyak is home to some of Bali’s biggest and best beach clubs, where top DJs rocking chilled-out tunes entice you to relax, dance, dine and delight all day – and well into the night.
The original and arguably still the best beach club is Ku De Ta where it pays to arrive early afternoon to nab one of the coveted lounges under the iconic red umbrellas and settle in for some quality people-watching. And then there’s Desa Potato Head which is Seminyak’s slickest beachside venue, with two restaurants, a swanky beachfront bar and an infinity pool overlooking the Indian Ocean to tempt you to stay and play a little longer.
Above: Sunset sessions and beats, images courtesy Ku De Ta.
W Bali. Image: © Natalie Bannister
While the late afternoons and evenings are all about hedonistic pleasures, the bright and shiny mornings in Seminyak are all about the shopping! With so many amazing homewares, fashion and lifestyle shops taking up residence in this area, you can easily fill hours hopping from one boutique to the next, exploring the shops along Jalan Kayu Aya (also known as Eat Street - which means lots of food and drink stops along the way!). End your shopping sojourn at Kim Soo, set in an old Dutch Colonial-style building, which blends exotic and contemporary homewares to entice even the weariest of shoppers — their in-house cafe is a lovely respite too, perfect for a bite to eat or a drink after you’ve shopped ‘til you dropped.
Seminyak is also a haven of respite in other ways, with a clutch of luxurious day spas where you can escape the hustle and truly relax and unwind.
My favourite? Start the day with yoga at the Indian and Middle Eastern-themed Prana Spa before entering a world of exotic pampering inside, where the spa’s exquisite treatments combine sacred Eastern traditions of health and beauty. Prana is an intoxicating treat, and it always feels like you’ve stepped into a Moroccan riad, right here in the heart of Seminyak.
Another classic Seminyak treat is the beautiful Moroccan-themed Bodyworks spa. It’s a bit of a ritual of mine to check in here on our final morning in Seminyak for the Mandi Lulur, a traditional Balinese exfoliation massage treatment using turmeric, sandalwood, cinnamon, ground nuts and rice, finished with a yoghurt wash and a floral bath. It’s a truly divine experience.
Top: Kim Soo and Prana Spa - images courtesy the venues. Bottom: Prana Spa and Bali Boat Shed, images © Natalie Bannister
Canggu — A Surfer’s Paradise
Morning surf checks, midday yoga, afternoon Bintangs and sunset cocktails are all part of the daily ‘grind’ in the chilled-out beach haven of Canggu. This charming area of Bali is actually a series of main drags – including the original and most populated centre of Batu Balong, where all the major shops, bars and restaurants are located, and the less crowded enclave of Berawa – all interspersed with rice fields, beautiful little boutiques and relaxed restaurants.
This corner of Bali tends to attract a mix of barefoot beachcombers, mad-keen surfers, fresh-faced health addicts, and digital nomads who figured out long ago that this right here is a little piece of nirvana, for a week, a month or a year: a place to find the slow in a fast-paced life.
Above: Image © Natalie Bannister
All images © Natalie Bannister
People tend to stay in private villas or boutique hotels around here – and there’s no better destination than The Slow in Batu Balong, the passion project of fashion designer George Gorrowa (of Tsubi fame) and his model wife, Cisco Tschurtschenthaler, which brings an element of arty, sophisticated cool to the vibe of Canggu.
Every element of The Slow is curated to please the aesthetic, from the edgy art on the walls to the unspeakably chic artisan style of the rooms, ando the health-focused food served up in the bistro. A stay at The Slow is always an immersive experience to stir the senses and expand your mind — the OG of cool Canggu establishments features a rotation of intriguing and impactful art exhibitions, and a keen focus on music, DJ sets and designer takeovers.
Canggu offers its own impressive cache of oceanside bars and beach clubs (this is Bali, after all!), with The Lawn a standout for its location overlooking the beach, seated picnic-style set-up on the grass, and in-demand lounges where you can sip on signature cocktails while the sun sinks behind the horizon. Make your way into the (always crowded) pool and head straight for the swim-up bar to keep the good times flowing. Bookings are essential here.
The Lawn at sunset. Image: © Natalie Bannister
Given the idyllic, laidback vibe of Canggu, it’s no surprise that a community of expat designers and creatives have chosen to make this their home away from home. The good news for travellers? They’ve brought with them some amazing boutiques and shopping options that will satisfy the most serious design nuts and fashionistas.
For modern exotic decor, head to Bungalow Living in Berawa (it’s a Balinese institution now!). You’re guaranteed to find a little slice of the island to bring back home with you when you pay a visit to this delightful boutique/gallery/cafe – I can never resist stocking up on a few of their exquisite wares. I also love a spot of shopping washed down with a cocktail and the (divine!) vegetarian Nasi Campur overlooking the rice fields at Nook — with a gorgeous homewares store and and relaxed cafe/restaurant, it’s such a lovely spot to spend an afternoon.
Salty hair and sun-kissed skin is the order of the day in Canggu, where the surfing spots range from pro to novice-friendly and stretch out along five kilometres of beachfront. There’s plenty of surf schools at the ready to teach beginners, while advanced board riders will no doubt find their own kind of paradise.
This little fisherman’s village offers an alluring brand of escapism, a mix of quiet urbanism (think: vibrant street art, trendy coffee houses and skate parks) and old-school vagabond Bali.
This is an excerpt of a story that was featured in the April 2019 issue of Holidays for Couples magazine.
You can view the article in full in our portfolio of published works.