Sacred Threads in Luang Prabang
Discover the many charms of Luang Prabang, and receive plenty of blessings along the way.
The daily ritual of tak bat, the almsgiving ceremony, takes place at sunrise every day on the streets of Luang Prabang.
Image: © Natalie Bannister
With its rich history and artistic heritage, glorious gilded temples and colonial French Indochina-era villas and shopfronts, UNESCO World Heritage-listed Luang Prabang in northern Laos is a traveller’s treasure box, begging to be explored. The royal capital of the country until 1975, it boasts natural wonders, wildlife and vibrant culture, and when I spent four wonderful days in this charming little city a few years ago, I was bestowed with so many blessings — in many different forms — along the way. From invocations at sunrise by saffron-robed monks and having our heads anointed by gentle giants, to cleansing our bodies in crystal-clear cascades and bathing in the majesty of sunset over the mighty Mekong, I fell completely in love with Luang Prabang – this place is brimming with a special beauty, unlike any other Southeast Asia destination I’ve been to before.
Luang Prabang is a pleasure to explore and discover, and you can easily cover it all in just a few days. Adorned with elaborate façades and tiered sweeping roofs, the gold and red-lacquered temples and pagodas of the ancient capital are the ideal introductions to the city, and it’s easy to spend an entire day temple-hopping around Luang Prabang, with many of the city’s 34 UNESCO-protected temples (wats), located within the compact town centre.
Take a leisurely walking tour and gain an insight into Laos’ deep Buddhist beliefs and cultural heritage. Start with the largest of all the temples in Luang Prabang, the exquisitely decorated Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham, located just next to Royal Palace, or Wat Xieng Thong, one of the city’s best-known monasteries. Or, head a little out of town and climb the stairs of Mount Phousi to access the hilltop temple with its golden stupa. There’s also a cave temple you can find by exploring the backside of the mountain. It’s a hard climb, but worth the effort for the incredible 360-degree view of Luang Prabang and the Mekong River stretched out below.
Spend an hour browsing the morning market, which lines the quiet streets near the Royal Palace from 6.30am till 10am, and you’ll sidestep everything from betelnut leaves, live toads and catfish, to red hot chillies, golden-hued marigold temple offerings and dried Mekong riverweed (a local delicacy — try it!).
Above: all images: © Natalie Bannister
Morning really is where the magic is in Luang Prabang, and we wake at the crack of dawn to meet our local tour experts Trails of Indochina who are picking us up from the hotel. We’re heading out onto the streets to take part in the daily ritual of tak bat, the almsgiving ceremony that takes place at sunrise every day, when hundreds of monks leave their respective temples to traverse the streets in long, straight lines, barefoot and carrying large, heavy alms bowls over one shoulder, to receive offerings of sticky rice from the local Buddhist population. The main street of town is often overcrowded with tourists vying for a kerbside spot – wholly removed from any level of serenity – so we’re heading instead to a quiet residential street where a row of low red stools has been set up in anticipation of our arrival. Our guide takes us through the proper motions – we must stay seated and below the monks at all times as a sign of respect. And then there’s the art of pinching the perfect golfball-sized amount of warm, sticky rice from our bamboo baskets, rolling it in our fingers to form a ball, ready to drop into each monk’s bowl as they pass. It’s a surprisingly fast process – the monks pause for mere seconds to receive their offering and quietly chant in unison outside each home in thanks – and before we know it they’re a blur of orange beacons on the horizon. Blessed by monks at hyper-speed.
Above: all images: © Natalie Bannister
We carry on afterwards for a sunrise stroll and cross the rickety old Nam Khan bamboo bridge (it’s washed away each year in the rainy season when the river floods, only to be rebuilt), to sit and watch the old town come to life with the perfect perch, coffee and croissant in hand, at Saffron Coffee’s Espresso, Brew Bar and Roastery, which is housed in a restored wooden terrace. Fulled up, we’re ready to head to our next destination to discover a different side to Laos culture, and delve into traditional textile arts.
“We carry on afterwards for a sunrise stroll and cross the rickety old Nam Khan bamboo bridge (it’s washed away each year in the rainy season when the river floods, only to be rebuilt), to sit and watch the old town come to life.”
Ock Pop Tok is an artisan social enterprise that showcases the weaving skills of village women, enabling them to earn a sustainable livelihood for their families and communities, while visitors can see the weavers at work and get hands-on with weaving and natural dye workshops. While you’re there, take a wander through the Ock Pop Tok shop and sift through handwoven scarves, cushion covers and clothing to souvenirs (there’s also a second popular storefront, Ock Pop Tok Heritage, near the centre of town).
You’ll find more beautiful textiles at the Luang Prabang Night Market, which is held every evening along the city’s main drag, Sisavangvong Road. While the market is undeniably tourist-oriented, it’s a delightful place to shop, devoid of hard-selling, and you can pick up other crafts like Hmong appliqué blankets, ceramics, handmade paper books and bamboo decor.
Above: Ock Pop Tok. All images: © Natalie Bannister
As evening sets in, head to one of the nearby restaurants in the Old Town to sample the local cuisine. Luang Prabang is known as the food capital of Laos, and we make our way to 3 Nagas in the Old Quarter, a series of heritage-listed houses that have been reimagined as a boutique hotel by MGallery by Sofitel. Dining under the stars in the hotel’s Khamboua Garden, we feast on Laotian favourites, like mhok het (steamed mushrooms and Lao herbs wrapped in banana leaves), and richly spiced curries – all washed down with whisky cocktails, folk music and dancing.
After dinner, wander down the road to one of the many chic wine bars that have taken up residence in the old shophouses that line the main street of town, where you can take a seat, glass of fine French wine in hand, and simply watch the world pass by.
Above: images courtesy 3 Nagas
Up early the next morning, we board a raft that takes us across the Nam Khan river to a local elephant sanctuary, MandaLao Elephant Conservation Camp, which is home to a small herd of retired and rescued elephants that have spent the majority of their lives in demanding physical labour, from logging to long days of giving rides to tourists. Now rehabilitated, they live a comfortable life free to roam as they would in the wild, and with no chains. MandaLao offers a non-riding elephant experience focused on education and animal welfare, and visitors are welcome to join the elephants’ daily routine. We spend a few incredible hours feeding banana bunches and sugar cane, which we pass directly into their trunks, and walking alongside these graceful creatures, many of which spent the majority of their lives in logging camps, now living a dignified and comfortable existence in their natural habitat. Unlike some, this a genuine elephant conservation effort.
All images © Natalie Bannister
I loved the slow pace of life in Luang Prabang and the simple joy of being able to explore the city sights with ease. Our boutique hotel, Sofitel Luang Prabang, offers complimentary pedal power with bicycles guests can use at any time, and with quiet streets to navigate, it’s a delightful way to explore. When we could pull ourselves away from our hotel, that is!
Located in the peaceful residential area of Ban Mano in a century-old colonial mansion on the grounds of the former French Governor’s residence, Sofitel Luang Prabang is gentrified and sophisticated, and totally charming. It felt like our own private haven of calm and cool, with only 25 all-suite guests rooms within its fortified walls, all with private courtyard and oversized outdoor bathtub (four with their own pool), and lush botanical gardens and serene ponds dotted throughout the property (keep an eye out for the resident rabbits!).
Each room lends a touch of old-world nostalgia with traditional textiles and a four-poster bed draped with fine muslin cloth. There’s also a central swimming pool with sunbeds and lounges that offered us cool respite and the perfect spot for a cocktail on a balmy afternoon after a day of shopping and sightseeing. The mansion’s colonial charms have been beautifully restored by Sofitel, with a refined sensibility and a nod to Laos culture. The reception area alone includes two wooden houses at either side that were transported here from the North to create a beautiful Laotian-style courtyard, which is the scene of our Baci ceremony, organised through the hotel on our final day Luang Prabang.
Above: Images courtesy Sofitel Luang Prabang
Above: Images © Natalie Bannister
Taking our seat on the cool green grass, we sit in silence as the elders cluster around and chant words in a language I cannot understand, taking turns to tie white cotton threads around my wrists, layer upon layer, their soft mantras bestowing me with happiness, prosperity, good health and safe travels. Lao Buddhists believe that humans are made up of 32 organs or entities, each with a spirit or ‘khuan’ to protect them, but these spirits often wander outside the body, causing an imbalance of the soul. I’m told that the tying of these threads on my wrists represents the yoking of the 32 spirits to my body, restoring harmony. Through taking part in this ancient Baci ceremony, I’ve just been put back together.
You can’t leave Luang Prabang without taking a trip to see the sparkling, fairy-like Kuang Si Falls. You’ll find the spectacular three-tiered travertine cascades just half an hour’s drive outside of town within Tat Kuang Si Park. Take a leisurely walk around the falls or dive straight into one of the many inviting turquoise swimming pools — a blessing on a hot, humid day — just aim to arrive early to beat the crowds.
While you’re there, make a stop at the nearby Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre. Located at the park’s entrance, the centre was established by the Australian organisation Free The Bears Fund as a sanctuary for Asiatic black bears (also known as moon bears) that have been rescued from illegal capture for bile farming.
Before leaving Tat Kuang Si Park, I highly recommend you take a stroll to a far more secret gem, the Swiss-owned restaurant Carpe Diem, which is tucked away in a lush green pocket a few minutes walk down the road from the falls. The food is great, but the scene is even better, with a river rushing through and views of the local village, where kids swim and play in quiet lagoons.
That afternoon, back in Luang Prabang, we end the day where the city’s life starts: on the mighty Mekong. Aboard the luxurious Mekong Kingdoms river boat, we putt gently and slowly downriver, passing fisherman in canoes and temples hidden in the jungle, sipping on wine and hors-d'œuvres as the sun melts into the magnificent river. It’s peaceful perfection.
Above: Images © Natalie Bannister
The writer travelled as a guest of Accor and Scoot Airlines.
This is an edited excerpt of a story that featured in the April 2020 annual edition of Holidays for Couples magazine.
You can view the full article in our portfolio of published works.