A Guide to the Best of Bali — Part 4: Ubud

Conjure up the ideal image of a lush tropical getaway, and you’ll imagine something very close to the jungle haven of Ubud. Set high up in the hills, it’s a soul-nourishing mix of ancient temples and terraced rice fields, New Age retreats, yoga escapes and soothing day spas, gastronomic gems from world-class restaurants and, of course, incredible places to stay and play. Some of the most beautiful luxury resorts and villas in all of Bali can be found here in Ubud, making it a veritable paradise of pleasures.

Above: The Spa at Maya. Image courtesy Maya Ubud Resort & Spa

Savour Ubud’s Dining Scene

The 13-course Indo-Dutch rijsttafel dining experience can be found at many of Ubud’s restaurants, a mouthwatering leftover from colonial Dutch Indonesia that includes a variety of small plates filled with different spicy and sweet Indonesian dishes. The beautiful Bridges restaurant, in the heart of Ubud town, is our favourite place to experience this traditional meal with a decidedly gourmet twist, paired with a view over a lush green ravine. Lovers can even leave their own ‘love lock’ on the old tree by the bridge of Tjampuhan at the restaurant’s entrance (order your padlocks engraved with your names a minimum of three days prior to your visit).

Even after over a decade of Ubud visits, I still can’t pass up the chance to dine with one of the most breathtaking views of Tjampuhan Ridge and Mount Agung at Indus, the restaurant run by Australian expat Janet DeNeefe (from the famed Casa Luna Cooking School in town and creator of the international Ubud Writers & Readers Festival) and her Balinese husband. Arrive at twilight for drinks and stay on for a romantic dinner of authentic Balinese cuisine and Asian-inspired dishes.

We also love Locavore on Jalan Dewi Sita, where the chefs whip up gourmet dishes using sustainably and locally sourced ingredients from the island itself, or from nearby islands including Lombok and Sumbawa. Be sure to also check out their 40-seater bar, Night Rooster, for nibbles washed down with finely crafted cocktails with exotic infusions.

You can also combine countryside expeditions with a cooking class through Happy Bike Tours, a local company that offers cycling tours down the backroads of Ubud, who also run cooking classes in a traditional Balinese compound, the home of tour owner and guide I Made Wira and his family. We loved spending a few hours learning how to prepare and cook some of our favourite Indonesian classics, including gado gado and a perfectly spicy sate (satay). You not only get to devour the results at the end but also take home the recipes, and spending time with Made is a total pleasure – this gentle and genuine man has a real passion for sharing the unique culture of his island home.

Clockwise from top left: The 13-course Indo-Dutch rijsttafel dining experience at Bridges; Made from Happy Bike Tours; Enjoy a cooking class in a traditional family compound. All images: © Natalie Bannister

Luxury in the Jungle

Jungle Fish Bar (aka the ‘No-Beach Beach Club’), located high above the Wos River Valley in Ubud at the boutique resort Chapung Sebali, offers a chic retreat for the day, with a swim-up pool bar where you can listen to music and lounge in the hanging chairs or private cabanas for a chilled out (yet oh-so-classy) time. Non-residents gain access to the pool facilities for a small fee, with a food and beverage credit included. But for the ultimate indulgence, do as we did and check in to one of the resort’s contemporary suites or private villas and settle in for a luxury stay surrounded by the lush green jungle and rice fields.

Or, take the concept of a jungle escape to the next level of luxury with a visit to the multi-award-winning Spa at Maya. Set on the grounds of Maya Ubud Resort & Spa, right on the edge of the Petanu River in a deep, green gorge lush with palms, bamboo and banana trees, the Spa at Maya retains its reputation as one of the most stunning and peaceful spa destinations in all of Bali. Couples will love the tailored, pampering experiences on offer in their own private pavilion – the whole experience is nothing short of heaven.

Above: Jungle Fish at Chapung Sebali, Ubud. All images: © Natalie Bannister

A walk through the rice fields is the perfect way to start the day, and you’ll pass smiling rice farmers tending their crops and remote villas scattering the hillsides, with a few hidden gems, such as traditional warungs (rustic local eateries serving traditional Indonesian dishes) and eco cafes along the way. Sari Organik, which floats in a sea of green rice paddies, offers tasty organic dishes in the most wonderful, relaxed open-air setting – perfect for a relaxed brunch.

Take in the majesty of the Tjampuhan Ridge Walk, which leads you over the top of one of Ubud’s many spectacular ridges, offering breathtakingly beautiful, sweeping views over the valleys on both sides. 

Ask around at any restaurant in town for directions to any of Ubud’s rice field walking trails (there’s many, and all are easy to find). Many hotels and resorts also offer fantastic guided walking tours, which offer local insight into the farming community and the many traditional villages along the way.

Ubud holds a special kind of magic all of its own. It’s a refuge of peace and tranquillity, a haven of breathtaking vistas and slow, simple pleasures. Thanks to the unique location, many of the resorts here offer a style of romantic escape unlike any other. Check in and chill out in this cool green oasis, where pure indulgence and luxury live alongside the beauty of traditional Balinese architecture and generous Balinese hospitality. Add to that some of Bali’s most sacred sites, and you have yourself a very special destination, indeed. 

Above: All images: © Natalie Bannister

This story was featured in the April 2019 issue of Holidays for Couples magazine.

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